History of the hoodie

I. Medieval Roots: The Birth of the Hood

The hoodie’s lineage stretches far beyond streetwear. Its earliest ancestor was the cowl, a hooded robe worn by monks in medieval Europe for warmth and modesty. These garments, made from heavy wool, featured attached hoods that could be pulled up for protection against the cold or drawn down for visibility and prayer.

Outside monastic life, hooded garments were common among peasants, hunters, and laborers—practical attire in a time when climate control meant layering whatever you could. The hood itself symbolized anonymity and humility, long before it became shorthand for rebellion or subculture.

II. Industrial Beginnings: The 1930s Workwear Revolution

The modern hoodie as we know it emerged in 1930s America, thanks to Champion Products (later Champion Athleticwear). Originally designed for warehouse and factory workers in upstate New York, these heavy cotton sweatshirts with attached hoods provided insulation in cold work environments.

Champion’s innovations in reverse-weave knitting made their hoodies durable and shrink-resistant—ideal for athletes and laborers alike. By the late 1930s, the hoodie had become standard gear for football players and track teams to stay warm before and after games.

This phase marked the hoodie’s first identity: utilitarian, functional, and purely practical.

III. Postwar Shift: The Hoodie Meets Sports and Academia

After World War II, American universities adopted athletic wear as casual fashion. Hoodies, once confined to locker rooms, began appearing around campus. Sports brands like Russell Athletic and Spalding started producing hooded sweatshirts for a growing market of young, active consumers.

By the 1950s, hoodies were tied to youth culture—though still largely as gym wear. It was only in the decades to come that they’d gain deeper meaning.

IV. The 1970s: From Sweatshirt to Street Symbol

The hoodie’s transformation into a cultural emblem began in the 1970s, driven by two parallel movements:

  1. Hip-Hop’s Rise in New York City:
    In the Bronx, DJs, breakers, and graffiti artists adopted the hoodie for its practicality and mystique. It offered warmth during nighttime sessions and anonymity in a society that often criminalized Black and brown youth. The hoodie became part of the uniform of the underground—functional, but also defiant.

  2. Hollywood’s Antiheroes:
    Around the same time, films like Rocky (1976) immortalized the hoodie as a symbol of grit and perseverance. Sylvester Stallone’s grey hoodie-clad training montages turned the garment into shorthand for the underdog spirit—a look that bridged blue-collar toughness and cinematic myth.

V. The 1980s–1990s: Skaters, Rebels, and Runways

By the 1980s, the hoodie had transcended its athletic roots. Skateboarders, punks, and graffiti crews all claimed it as their own. It was cheap, durable, and camouflaging—perfect for subcultures existing outside the mainstream.

In the 1990s, as hip-hop went global, the hoodie became a global streetwear staple. Brands like Tommy Hilfiger, FUBU, and Wu-Wear pushed it into urban fashion, while skate brands like Stüssy and Supreme made it synonymous with cool defiance.

Simultaneously, designers like Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein, and later Raf Simons began integrating hoodies into high fashion collections, translating street aesthetics for luxury audiences.

The hoodie now existed in two worlds: streetwear and runway, rebellion and prestige.

VI. The 2000s: The Hoodie Controversy

As the hoodie’s popularity surged, it became a lightning rod for fear and prejudice. In the early 2000s, British shopping centers and American schools began banning hoodies, associating them with delinquency and gang culture.

This culminated in tragic moments, such as the 2012 killing of Trayvon Martin, where the hoodie became a national symbol of racial profiling and injustice. The “Justice for Trayvon” movement turned the hoodie into a visual protest—a piece of clothing now inseparable from the conversation about race, identity, and systemic bias in America.

The same garment that once protected from cold now exposed social tensions.

VII. The 2010s: The Hoodie Goes Global

By the 2010s, the hoodie was everywhere—from Silicon Valley to Paris Fashion Week. Tech CEOs and designers like Vetements’ Demna Gvasalia both embraced it, though for very different reasons.

For tech culture, the hoodie symbolized casual genius and anti-establishment intellect—a rejection of corporate dress codes. For high fashion, it represented cultural remixing, blending luxury with the aesthetics of the street.

The hoodie had officially become a universal language—interpreted differently depending on who wore it, and where.

VIII. The 2020s: Comfort, Identity, and Resistance

In the wake of global protest movements and the COVID-19 pandemic, the hoodie again evolved—this time into a symbol of comfort and introspection. As people stayed home, hoodies became both armor and cocoon: the uniform of a generation rethinking work, space, and identity.

Simultaneously, designers continued to use the hoodie as a medium for commentary. Brands like Pyer Moss, Telfar, and Fear of God fused spirituality, Black identity, and minimalism into the silhouette—affirming that the hoodie remains one of the most democratic pieces of clothing ever made.

IX. Conclusion: The Hoodie as Modern Myth

From monks’ robes to Manhattan block parties, from boxing gyms to couture runways, the hoodie has absorbed every era’s energy. It embodies paradox: comfort and rebellion, anonymity and identity, softness and strength.

Few garments have traversed such diverse cultural terrains. The hoodie is no longer just clothing—it’s a canvas for meaning, shaped by whoever pulls it over their head.

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